
As a score of Americans pours over the ridge and down the broad stairs to the waiting ship below, a group of North Korean tourists looks somewhat agap as perhaps their least expected moment has occurred. Nearly two dozen Americans stand facing a similar group of North Koreans next to the U.S.S. Pueblo, North Korea’s trophy capture and the destination of this phase of a busy day. (For information about the Pueblo, I recommend you visit usspueblo.org run by the Pueblo Veteran’s Association.)


We are sat in front of a television in the ships galley and watch a propaganda film, loaded with glorious images reminiscent of a 1950’s cold war movie shown in elementary school to ward us of impending war with the Soviets. The music matches. The narrator, with an accent more reminiscent of the comic French English of Peter Sellers than the English-speaking North Korean it is, draws us into the story of the “Pueblo armed spy ship of the U.S. imperialist aggression forces.” The ship had a crew of 83 with six officers when captured, one American dies in the capture.
My attention wanes as a mosquito drones around my ear. There appear to be parts of the wall rebuilt with fiberglass. The interior is relatively well maintained. “...the brazen-faced U.S. imperialists...” It is interesting that the video credits Kim Jong Il with handling the negotiations at the time – in 1968. “...the enemy kneeled down before the Korean people and made an apology...” A flag-draped coffin flashes across the screen – the one American who dies in the action. “...the U.S. imperialists who kneeled down before the Korean People are now running on down hill...”

And again we are told that the Koreans are so proud of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong il for capturing the Pueblo, the only instance that a boat of seven soldiers captures a ship with a crew of 83. Given that our guide was part of the seven that boarded the Pueblo (from their 12 person missile boat), one would think HE would remember that neither Kim Jong Il nor Kim Il Sung were actually there with him, but...

I have mixed feelings about my tour of the Pueblo. On the one hand, it is simply a trophy of a bygone conflict, on the other, here I am standing with one of the Koreans who actually took part in the action – not exactly bygone. Here, he is a hero, in America, he is a villain and a pirate. Having met Commander Pete Bucher in the past, I stand here where he defended his ship, and smirk as I remember his story of his “admission” of guilt, and his offering to paean Kim Il Sung, paean the North Korean military... (pronunciation being “pee on,” the word being one he said he heard as a child in a radio commercial for ice cream).

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